
Madrid
The home city. Flat, late, cheap to eat in, and built for leaving the house.
17 places · 3 guides
Madrid · Lisbon · Rome
A curated guide to stays, tables, drinks and trips. Addresses worth knowing, written to be used on the day — not bookmarked and forgotten.
17 places in Madrid · 9 guides · see them on the map

Templo de Debod, the free sunset. Javier Perez Montes · CC BY-SA 4.0

Drinks
low lights, good drinks, no rush to leave.
Not the loudest rooms in the city — the ones where you can still hear each other at midnight.
Itinerary
There is a correct way to spend Sunday in this city and it ends with you achieving nothing. Here is the route.
TripsSponsored
The same square can be unbearable at two and close to empty at half past seven. Almost all Rome advice is really timing advice.
Stays
Central Madrid does not get quiet until about four. That single fact should decide your booking.
Tables worth planning a day around. Markets, counters and the one street everyone ends up on.
Restaurants · Market
A working market under a wave of green roofs, with bars wedged between the fish counters.
Restaurants · Food hall
The city's nineteenth-century market hall, half of it now a curated food court.
Restaurants · Pizza by weight
Sample entry: trays in the window, cut with scissors, sold by weight.
Restaurants · Market
The neighbourhood market that is worth crossing the city for, especially at lunchtime.
Stays · Apartment
Sample entry: top floor, sloped ceiling, and the whole centre on your doorstep — plus the noise that comes with it.
Stays · Guesthouse
Sample entry: six rooms behind an azulejo facade, three floors, no lift.
Stays · Townhouse rooms
Sample entry: a flatter, greener base, ten minutes downhill from the centre.
Plans · Square
The square Malasaña is organised around, and the clearest picture of how this city uses an evening.
Plans · Viewpoint
A second-century BC Egyptian temple, given to Spain in 1968, with the best free sunset in the city.
Plans · Park
A former royal garden, public since 1868, and the city's shared back garden ever since.
Plans · Riverside park
A motorway buried underground and replaced with ten kilometres of park along the Manzanares.
New addresses, openings worth knowing about, and the occasional weekend plan. Free, and there is nothing behind it to buy.
3 Madrid guides published so far.
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